Allison Cook writes:
Chef and pitmaster Ara Malekian’s magnificent smoked-meat platter at his far-southwestern barbecue joint, just over the Richmond line, is one of my last vivid dining memories from before the lockdown. The images of his elemental rose-red lamb chop and opulent, suave duckling are wreathed in woodsmoke; and the mighty beef ribs, with their crusty char, seem like a distant dream. I made a pledge to fellow BBQ State of Mind podcaster Chris Reid, the Houston Chronicle’s barbecue guru, to return here for a feast with bottles of great red wine. The goal stands, one of many getting me through the pandemic.